FastCap Upper Hand "3rd Hand"
Top Pick for Upper Cabinet Installations
Top Pick: FastCap UpperHand
ALSO IN THIS GUIDE:
› PROFESSIONAL GRADE: T-JAK PRO
› DIY SHORT JACK: FASTCAP LITTLEHAND
› FOR BASE CABINETS: VIKING ARM LIFT
› CABINET LIFT: CABINETIZER 72
› CROWN ASSIST: FastCap 3rd Hand
Cabinet jacks are a must to install upper cabinets. First, as you can guess, the best cabinet jacks will let you take the weight off you while you clamp and screw the cabinets. But, the best cabinet jacks are versatile to be used later for anything to installing microwaves to cast iron extensions on your table saw (I’ve done both).
What makes for a great cabinet jack?
Well, consider the following when choosing:
- Length is the #1 factor – and installing cabinets is usually done uppers first. So a jack with a reach from 54-90″ is preferred.
- Durability and construction to withstand abuse during transport
- Fixed versus articulating feet with pads
- And, if lifting is also an issue, cabinet lifts that will both lift and hold your cabinets while you install cabinet screws to the wall.
In this guide we’ve purchased and tested jacks to test their use in cabinet installations. While professionals may opt for the sturdy T-Jak’s, any DIY project will enjoy the budget price and strong build of the FastCap Upper Hand or Little Hand.
Top Brands: Both FastCap and T-Jak are the original innovators in cabinet jacks and are the target of many initiation and knock-off brands. While saving a few dollars is tempting, a brand name is generally worth the cost. We have both the FastCap UpperHand and LittleHand in our shop.
Buying Guide
While cabinet jack features matter, there are a few key decisions to make before purchasing a cabinet jack:
- Installation order: decide if you are installing uppers first (most pros do) or bases first.
- Cabinet height: most upper cabinets are 54″ off the ground (check your buliding codes if unsure) and there is 18″ between the base and upper cabinets. Choose a jack that will fit that range.
- Weight capacity should be at least 200 pounds to support heavy cabinets.
Features to Consider
- Maximum and minimum length
- Weight support
- Extendable lengths
- Size of top and bottom pads
- “Freestanding” vs. swivel heads
- Reach for microwave and fridge cabinets
- Brand reputation
- Micro-adjustment of the lever or adjustment screws
Floor to Upper Cabinet Reach
The proper jack for your project must reach from either the floor (usually 54″). Or, if installing upper cabinets over base cabinets a jack that reaches 12 to 24″ is best.
Types of Cabinet Jacks
With many types of jacks on the market it can be difficult to pick which one is right for your cabinet installation job(s).
In general, there are three types of jacks:
- Upper cabinet “tall” jacks that reach at least 54-inches
- Short jacks that allow for installing cabinets over existing bases
- And, base cabinet solutions that will lift cabinets for shimming and adjustment
Which do you need?
Well, that depends on your intent as a DIY’er or professionals. Or, if lifting and holding is what your really looking for then a do-it-all cabinet lift is what serious installers use.
Upper Cabinet Jack (28-60 Inches)
Shown: FastCap UpperHand
This cabinet jack is my choice for a DIY install due to it’s proper height and economical price point.
First, this jack has a wide base and top pad, supports heavy cabinets up to 150 pounds, and with a 28-60″ reach will work for almost all upper cabinet installations.
And hey, I own this cabinet jack, and here’s a few features I like about it:
- Stands in place without falling over on large 6×6 pads
- Heavy duty upper squeeze handle for adjustment
- Micro-adjustment with positive grip top extension
- Quick adjust tab to slide the jack to rough height
- Top and bottom pads have a rubberized gripping surface
- Extends from a shorter working range to longer with dual locking detents
A pair of these is ideal as you can set one under the already installed upper cabinet with a little tension for a firm ledge. And then set the next jack under the upper cabinet you are installing after it is lifted in place.
Pros
- 28-60" reach is perfect for standard 54" upper cabinet bottom height
- Quick adjust tab
- Large base pads that don't swivel
- If you've installed base cabinets first, in most cases just remove the drawers and use this from the base cabinet bottom
Cons
- Maximum 60" reach won't work for fridge or microwave cabinets
Heavy Duty Jack For Cabinets and drywall
Shown: T-JAK PRO
The T-Jak 104 supports a 53-84″ working range to meet all heights of cabinets. And for contractors it serves a second job as a drywall jack with pads.
One of the pro choices because of it’s screw-type adjustment and 400 pound rating.
This jack also features extension rods to take it’s working height close to 12 feet. And when paired with it’s drywall tabs it is built for holding a sheet of drywall to the ceiling.
Jack For Installing Crown (57-144 inches)
Shown: FastCap Third Hand
Often used in combination with a taller jack, a telescoping jack like the 3rd Hand support system will offer extra range for microwave or over-fridge cabinets.
Features:
- Extra length allows for (2 person) support of taller cabinets
- Micro-adjustment lever
- Rubber end pads
- 150 pound load capacity
And for dust control, these are commonly used to hold dust shields or crown molding.
Pros
- Extended reach up to 12-feet for trim support
- Quick adjust tab
- 150 pound capacity
Cons
- Smaller pads don't allow this jack to free-stand
Cabinet Jack for Installing Upper Cabinets Last
Shown: FastCap Little Hand
A FastCap Little Jack works great for a remodel or for updates to cabinets when the bases are already in place.
With a 6×6″ top and bottom pad these jacks will easily hold an upper cabinet in place. To use simply place on top of a board spanning the lower cabinet (or counter for finished kitchens). Then place the cabinet on top and use the lever to adjust the cabinet to it’s final height.Base Jack To Lift, Hold and Shim
Shown: Viking Arm Lift
Professionals know that leveling base cabinets can be a chore – especially alone. With most cabinets requiring a shim in one (or more) of the cabinet corners the installer is left to lift and then insert a shim in usually an awkward position.
The solution?
A jack that will securely lift the cabinet with precision.
Cabinet Lifts for Both Raising and Holding
Shown: Cabinetizer 76 Lift
Lifting cabinets is a heavy job. With most cabinets made of 3/4-MDF or plywood even small cabinets can easily weigh 75-pounds or more.
The risk for professionals? Injuries over years of lifting and twisting add up.
While cabinet lifts are generally $500 or more (there are a variety of options) they are also reusable for:
- Lifting loads into and out of a pickup bed
- Hoisting other heavy items onto and off shelving
- Microwave installations
Two-in-One Stand and Lift
See on Amazon: Rockwell Jaw Stand
If you are planning to install your base cabinets first and just aren’t sure if you’ll use a cabinet jack later then this might be your best option.
For example, while other jacks are good at, well, jacking, the Rockwell JawStand will do both. While NOT as good of a jack (due to it’s design) it will offer up support and then turn into an outfeed support later.
How to use a Cabinet Jack
If you haven’t installed cabinets before it’s tempting to start with the base cabinets.
But in most cases this will lead to more issues, heavy lifting in awkward positions and a potential for damaged base cabinets.
Why I Install Upper Cabinets First
I’m the kind of carpenter that doesn’t build things on the floor, lift things more than I need to or make a mess I don’t have to.
So it sounds tempting to use the base cabinets as a resting place for upper cabinets right?
Well, unfortunately it creates a few issues:
- You will be leaning over the 24″ deep bases for *everything*
- Increased risk of damaging the base cabinets with your tools
- Awkward lifting angles, even with a jack
- And, to use a jack you’ll need a sturdy plywood base spanning the lower cabinets
But, if you’re adding a cabinet to an existing kitchen (rare!) there might be a few uses for a shorter jack.
Two Jacks are Better Than One
If you’re installing with a partner, you’ll have the luxury of being able to use two cabinet jacks instead of one.
And, by doing so, you’ll gain the advantage of stability as you start to install shims and screw the cabinets to each other.
Using a Jack by Yourself
With most upper cabinets maxing out at 48″ you’ll be able to lift the cabinet in place by yourself.
And that’s when a free-standing jack, like the UpperHand, is useful to allow you to lift and rest the cabinet in place. Then once the cabinet is set:
- Use the adjustment lever to set the height of the cabinet
- Then, install screws into the adjacent cabinet
- Insert shims as needed against the wall and screw the cabinet to the wall.
- Release the jack
Seven other uses after the project is done
For $50-100 you’ll be able to re-use a miter saw, cordless drill or other cabinet installation tools.
But what will I do with a cabinet jack when the project is over?
Here are seven things you can use a jack for after the kitchen is installed:
- Use as a load bar in your truck to prevent shifting of cargo (the FastCap 3rd Hand works best)
- Make dust shields for drywall projects
- Hold microwave cabinets in place during installation
- For the taller jacks, like the T-Jak, hold drywall to the ceiling
- Use as a spreader for framing projects to nudge (or hold) walls in place
- Support laser levels for tile projects
- Hold deck beams in place during rough framing
Cabinet Jack and Claw
After you’ve set the cabinet on the cabinet jacks the next task is to install shims and cabinet screws. And that’s where the cabinet claw comes into play.
Now obviously the cabinet claw will only work for face frame cabinets, so for a frameless design you’ll want to consider the FastCap Jack of all Trades (above) that will provide a secure grip will the cabinet is installed. And it even doubles as a cabinet jack for base cabinets.
Frequently Asked Questions About Cabinet Jacks
How do you hang upper cabinets yourself?
Upper cabinets are best installed using a cabinet jack that will hold the cabinet in place so your hands are free to screw the cabinet to the wall.
What is the best cabinet jack?
There are two types of cabinet jacks in this article and which one you choose will depend on your installation style.
How many cabinet jacks do I need?
For upper cabinets under 18″ you can use a single jack. However, for cabinets over 18″ two jacks will allow the installer to more easily balance the cabinet during installation. Due to most upper cabinets lengths at 24-36″ two cabinet jacks are recommended.
Summary
Perfecting a cabinet installation requires patience and muscle. Rather than let muscle get in the way of making cabinets level and installed with precision a cabinet jack, lift or multi-purpose solution is what the professionals rely on.
Resources
Cabinet Installation Series
Planning & Tools To Install Cabinets
Guides for Cabinet Installation
Finishing Cabinets With Molding and Hardware
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Last update on 2023-05-30 at 02:03 / Images from Amazon
- About the Author
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Eric has been a professional woodworker for over thirty years and has worked in small cabinet shops making everything from kitchen cabinets to hand-made furniture. Now working from a home woodworking shop Eric is sharing his passion for woodworking, tool advice and how-to knowledge from his Minnesota-based woodshop.