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Choosing the best Freud saw blades isn’t easy. With over 700+ blade variations from Freud that fit over 20 different types of saws there are a seeming endless variety to choose from.
But in this guide we’ll break down the best Freud saw blades by the most popular saws and type of use. And since most woodworking involves a quality glue line rip blade* for the table saw, a high tooth count crosscut for the miter box, and a smaller circular saw blade we’ll start there.
Why the focus on Freud? Personally, I’ve used them for decades in my saws because of their durability, high quality carbide, and they are built for both industrial and hobbyist use.
Key saw blade features:
- Number of teeth
- Thickness of kerf (amount of wood removed)
- Angle of tooth cut
- Anti-vibration grooves
- Coating to reduce friction and pitch build-up
Freud Saw Blades
1. Table Saw - 10" Freud glue line rip blade
Editor Choice for Ripping Hardwoods
With the Freud 10″ Glue Line Rip* saw blade you can skip the jointer and move right to gluing up your panels.
As a cabinetmaker, this is a multi-purpose blade I leave in my table saw unless I’m ripping plywood. Due to it’s innovative teeth design this blade can leave perfectly smooth cuts in most hardwoods.
Why is a glue line blade important? Well, gluing panels requires a perfectly flat surface with no saw marks that show in the finished surface. And the alternative to a glue line rip blade is needing to joint every ripped edge that comes off the saw. Obviously, that doubles the time to prepare wood panels for glue-up.
Key features of this saw blade:
- Triple chip tooth design that leaves a smooth face to each cut
- 30 teeth that are perfect for ripping hardwoods
- Anti-vibration slots
Finally, I wouldn’t waste this Freud saw blade on softwoods for general cutting. Instead, find a multi-purpose saw blade with fewer teeth for sap collecting wood.
2. Miter saw - Freud cutoff blade for smooth crosscuts
Editor Choice for Crosscuts in Wood and Wood Composites
With the Freud Ultimate Cutoff 80T 12″* or Ultimate Cutoff 80T 10″* blade you’ll have the best grind and tooth count for a glass-like end cut finish that won’t require sanding. And this blade will work equally well in sliding or rigid miter saws.
When it comes to making smooth cross grain cuts with minimal wood chip-out a high tooth blade is what you’ll want to start.
And while Freud offers a variety of crosscut blades they’ve went ahead and called this saw blade the “Ultimate Cutoff”.
Here’s what to like about this blade:
- Unique side grind by Freud for a polished edge to wood
- Standard arbor sizes (5/8 and 1″)
- .116″ narrow kerf
- 10-degree hook angle
- 80 teeth
- Laser cut anti-vibration slots
- 1-5/8″ max depth of cut
Finally, there are dozens of crosscut saw blades on the market. But when Frued picks one as the cutoff champion it deserves a hard look.
3. Circular Saw - 7-1/4" corded Freud blades for plywood
Editor Choice for Circular Sawing of Plywood and Melamine
With the Freud 60T 7-1/4″ Circular Saw* you’ll have the perfect blade for cutting plywood and melamine sheets. And don’t forget cross-cutting hardwoods, but keep reading for a blade for dimensional lumber.
There are hundreds of circular saw blades on the market to fit the standard 5/8″ arbor and 7-1/4″ blade size.
But very few are designed for crosscuts in plywood that can cost more than the blade itself. And that’s why I like this Freud blade as it’s a hard-to-find miter saw quality blade in a compact form.
- High alternate top bevel (HiATB) grind for splinter-free cuts (a must in plywood!)
- 5/8″ arbor and 7-1/4″ blade
- .079″ kerf
- Laser cut anti-vibration
For rougher cuts with fewer teeth check out the next blade on the list. But remember to match your blade to your project needs. And if you are going to tackle plywood steadily this blade will improve project quality..
Manufacturers links: Freud 7-1/4″ Plywood and Melamine (LU79R007)
4. Circular Saw - 7-1/4" Freud framing blade for rough cuts
Editor Choice for Framing Saw Blade
With the Freud 24T 7-1/4″* your framing circular saw will melt through wet lumber. And, in wet wood avoid pitch build-up with the Perma-shield Freud protection.
For construction or framing use this 24 tooth blade with high density carbide will power your circular saw through thousands of cuts. While still useful for some fine carpentry and cabinetry, the lower tooth count is best for rough cuts.
- Built for wet lumber
- Laser cut slots for anti-vibration
- 5/8″ arbor with diamond knock-outs
- ATB – alternate top bevel grind for ease of feed
- .059″ thin kerf
5. Cordless circular saw blades from Freud
With cordless saws using anywhere from a 4-3/8″ up to the standard 7-1/4″ there are options in the Freud saw blades line-up.
It’s hard to believe, but cordless circular saws can use up to the standard 7-1/4″ blades. But not all manufacturers support the full size blade, so here’s a list of cordless Freud saw blades:
- 4-3/8″ Freud Diablo* – featuring 36 teeth, up to 14,000 RPM and knockouts to support 3/8″ arbor.
- 5-3/8″ Freud Diablo* – with 36 teeth, 10mm arbor, and 12,000 max RPM.
- 6-1/2″ Freud Diablo* – with 24 teeth and 5/8″ arbor this is a great saw blade for framing and wet cuts.
Looking for a cordless table saw? Check out our guide to the best cordless table saws for corded power saws without the cord.
Purchasing Guide for Freud Saw Blades
So what matters when it comes to purchasing saw blades from Freud? Well the reason most professionals turn to Freud are the features they pack into the blade.
But there are also bulk purchasing options and supplies for your saw blade, including sharpening services you’ll want to consider.
Why carbide is a must for saw blades
First, there are very few reasons to consider a steel bladed saw. While steel used to be preferred for a narrow kerf and cheap price, the carbide blades have caught up in this segment.
Here’s what makes carbide desirable for your saw blades:
- Twice as dense and strong as standard steel
- Abrasion resistant (eg. hitting other steel)
- Withstands higher heats than normal steel
- Stays sharper longer
- Can be sharpened
Lastly, some Freud blades use a “TiCo” carbide formula that is rated to last 5 times as long as other carbide blades due to it’s high density composition.
The hook angle drives how aggressive the blade grabs wood
A blades hook angle is the first indicator of performance. To explain, the hook angle is the degree in which the tooth enters the piece of wood. Here’s why hook angle matters:
- An aggressive angle like 20-degrees is found on ripping blades to “pull” the wood into the blade.
- A negative angle like -5-degrees allows the saw user maximum control as the saw is pushed or pulled over the work piece
Most ripping blades are fall in the 10 to 15-degree range. And, for maximum control, some sliding compound blades are available in the -5-degree hook angle.
Why the top grind matters for cut quality
By now you’ve probably seen the ATB or “Alternate Tooth Bevel” on the Freud saws and wonder what it means.
Switching angles to the top of the saw tooth, the top grind determines a lot about the quality of the cut and what woods or composites the blade will (or won’t) cut.
The top angle is usually found in a range of 0 to 20-degrees. Here’s what that impacts:
- Alternate Tooth Bevel (ATB) reduces chipping with an alternating top angle grind.
- Triple Chip Grind (TCG) that provides a smooth finished edge and is found on glue-line ripping blades. This grind has alternating teeth that perform two cuts on the wood for the finished result.
- Flat top grinds are used with ripping blades for maximum durability of the tooth.
How anti-vibration and heat slots help
You’ve probably seen the crazy looking grooves in saw blades and wondered if they have a purpose or are a gimmick.
Well, the anti-vibration cuts are for a purpose and allow for:
- As you can guess, less vibration in the saw especially during fast aggressive cuts.
- Heat expansion as the blade warms up
- While a topic of discussion, some claim they reduce noise during cutting. But the jury is out on that.
But, with most blades laser cut on the outside you can’t find too many in the Freud line that don’t have these grooves.
Frequently Asked Questions for Freud Saw Blades
Is more teeth on a saw blade better?
More teeth on a saw blade is not always better. Because the teeth, hook angle and grind all contribute to the blade performance there are reasons a saw with less teeth will cut better. For example, when ripping softwoods on a table saw a 24 tooth blade will perform better than a 60 tooth blade. But when a crosscut is required, a higher tooth blade like the Freud 90-tooth* will cut much better than a 40 tooth.
How do you cut wood without splintering?
To avoid splintering in wood while cutting with saws you’ll want to match the saw blade to the application. For example, when crosscutting you’ll want to use a high tooth count blade built for cutoff. But for ripping or cutting plywood a less aggressive tooth hook angle and alternating side grind angle will reduce splinters.
How do I sharpen a saw blade?
Due to the specific angles of saw blades it is best to use a professional sharpening service. And Freud has a great directory of certified sharpening services. By attempting sharpening yourself you might change the performance of the blade by altering the angles.
Can I use the same saw blade in my miter saw and table saw?
With the diversity of blades from Freud it should be easy to find the right size of blade. But, as you can see in this article finding the best Freud saw blade for your specific type of cut and wood can take a little more research.
And after 20 years making sawdust the best advice I have is research, test and you’ll know on the next purchase what you liked and didn’t like.