Choosing the best clear wood finish for your project can be a difficult choice. While some of the top clear coats are designed to not yellow the wood, others protect against water damage and still others are free of harmful VOC’s to be food safe.
And to make things more confusing, you’ll need to choose between interior and exterior finishes that offer features like:
- Wipe on applications
- Extreme hardness (epoxy)
- UV protection
- Water contact
- FDA approved for food safety
- Spray application
In this article learn the different between penetrating and surface wood finishes, what finishes won’t yellow with time, best finishes for outdoor use, and why choosing a low VOC finish is best.
Top Picks
Best for interior wood (non-yellowing):
Easiest to apply:
Best for outdoor furniture:
Wood floor pick:
Marine grade protection:
Food safe, solvent free finish:
Our Top Picks
1. General Finishes Urethane (Durable, Easy to Apply)
Wipe on urethanes, like a General Finishes urethane, are easy to use and make a perfect finish for any skill level. No brushes, dries very fast, and works on trim and large surfaces equally well.
Shown: General Finishes Quart
- Type: Urethane (surface)
- Composition: Oil based
- Application: Wipe on
- Uses: Cabinets, furniture, trim, etc.
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
I’ve sprayed hundreds of gallons of high toxicity pre-catalyzed lacquer. And while that type of (professional) finish is fantastic, it’s not a DIY’ers option or safe to apply without the right protective gear.
So, for my home woodworking projects, 20 years ago I switched to a urethane wipe on finish. And the results? A comparable finish without spraying.
What do I like about a urethane finish? It holds up incredibly well to water and wear, it goes on with a cloth, dries in 15-20 minutes and is easy to sand between coats.
Like most clear finishes you will want 2-3 coats for a smooth, clear finish. And I like to use a sanding block after the first coat to create a perfectly smooth final finis
Pros
- Best overall indoor sealing
- Fast drying
- Easy to sand
- Easy to apply
Cons
- Oil based, higher toxicity
2. Polycrylic Finish For Interior Projects (Non Yellowing)
Polycrylic is a low VOC, water-based finish that will not yellow over time and is easy to apply.
Shown: Minwax Polycrylic
- Type: Polycrylic (surface)
- Composition: Water based
- Application: Brush on
- Uses: Cabinets, furniture, trim, etc.
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
A polycrylic is a water based, less toxic finish that applies easily and dries fast in the right (low humidity) conditions.
- Dries in 2-3 hours
- Water-based
- Covers evenly
- Cloth-based application (no brushes)
- Will not yellow like oil-based finishes
And like most clear finishes you will want 3+ coats. But for water-based finishes I recommend an extra coat. You can learn more in our guide to applying polycrylic.
Pros
- Best for Indoor Use
- Non-yellowing
- Water based for lower toxicity
Cons
- Requires careful application on large surfaces to avoid white film
3. Spar Varnish Exterior Varnish
Spar varnish produces a hard, clear finish that protects wood from water damage and has been used for decades on marine-grade projects.
Shown: Rust-Oleum Spar Varnish
Overview
- Type: Varnish (surface)
- Composition:Solvent based
- Application: Brush on
- Uses: Exterior wood projects, boats
- Indoor/Outdoor: Outdoor
Rust-Oleum Spar Varnish is a marine grade clear finish that is great for exterior applications where the finish will be exposed to water.
- Exterior finish
- Expands and contracts with weather condition changes
- Durable
- UV protection
Key drawbacks? Well, this finish is tougher to apply and isn’t suited to most interior applications. And you’ll need to use protective masks and gloves as this is a solvent based finish.
Pros
- Made for outdoor use
- UV, salt and mildew resistant
- Protects wood from water damage (non-submerged)
Cons
- Can be difficult to apply smoothly
4. Epoxy Resin Finish for Bar Tops
A two part epoxy resin works for bar tops or filling live edge tops of any shape. An epoxy is recognized as extremely hard and is what you'll find on bartops due to it's durability and toughness.
- Type: Epoxy (surface)
- Composition:Solvent based
- Application: Poured
- Uses: Interior (bar, tables)
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
A two part epoxy forms a clear, hard wood finish that is perfect for bar tops or epoxy tops.
- Two part mixture
- Fast drying times (30-60 minutes working time)
- Avoids “fish eyes” and craters
- Bubbles can be burned off during drying with a blowtorch or heat gun
While this finish may seem intimidating, with a long working time you’ll be able to adjust your approach. But make sure you have a level surface first and a heat gun for bubble control.
Pros
- Exceptional durability to dings
- Excellent water protection
- Hard, clear finish
Cons
- Difficult to apply
- Can bubble during application
- Expensive
5. Clear Lacquer Spray Finish In a Can
A spray lacquer is perfect for small surface projects with uneven features that wouldn't accept a brushed or wiped finish.
Shown: Rust Oleum Spray Lacquer
- Type: Acrylic (surface)
- Composition:Solvent based
- Application: Sprayed
- Uses: Small or intricate surfaces
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
First up is understanding that lacquer is an acrylic-based spray and a protective mask rated for chemical use is a must.
Pros
- Durable finish
- Spray on for easy use
- Fast drying
Cons
- Acrylic-base requires protective mask
- Not suited for large surfaces
- Overspray can leave a rough or clouded finish on intricate projects
6. Tung Oil for Butcher Blocks
Tung oil is a penetrating clear wood sealer that has been used for centuries to seal wood and is favored in kitchens and cutting blocks
Shown: Hope’s Tung Oil
- Type: Penetrating
- Composition:Natural oil
- Application: Wiped on
- Uses: Cutting boards, all wood projects
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
This penetrating wood finish can be used on a variety of projects, including:
- Food safe cutting boards
- First finish on wood projects, and then later seal them (eg. with urethane or lacquer)
- Weathered wood
- Brick, stone and cast iron
So what gives tongue oil the distinct status of a wood finish that is food safe?
Well, tongue oil is made from compressing the roots of (you guessed it) the Tung tree. Once extracted, applied to your project, it dries when exposed to air and forms a sealant deep within the wood.
Pros
- Deep penetrating
- Non-toxic
- Food safe (verify with brand!)
- Doesn't require a surface sealant (but it will work with them)
Cons
- Alters color of wood grains (can yellow)
7. Polycrylic Spray-on Clear Coat
A polycrylic spray converts the water-based clear finish typically brushed on into a spray can that produces a clear finish with a dry time to recoat in as little as 2 hours.
Shown: Minwax Water Based Spray
- Type: Surface
- Composition: Water based
- Application: Spray
- Uses: Smaller and irregular projects
- Indoor/Outdoor: Indoor
Combining all of the features of the wipe or brush-on polycrylic but converting it to a spray can, this type of finish is quick and easy for all projects. And, as a spray can, it can be used for minor touch-ups of projects that may have been damaged during transport or installation.
Pros
- Easy to apply
- No cleanup
- Convenient spray-on finish
- Same properties as traditional polycrylic
Cons
- Can leave overspray on larger surfaces
Types of Finishes
From cabinets to furniture and food safe surfaces like a butcher block there are a wide variety of options when choosing a clear coat for wood projects.
Before deciding on a finish it is important to know there are two categories of wood finishes: surface finishes and penetrating finishes.
In general, you’ll use a surface finish for cabinets, furniture, trim and other surfaces as it “builds up” to provide a protective coat.
But, a penetrating finish like tung oil protects the wood from within and, with proper choice, are food safe.
Indoor Projects
For indoor projects the following finishes are the most popular:
- Water resistant: a urethane or polyurethane is best. Common for cabinets, floors, trim and furniture.
- Waterproof: an epoxy finish is most common (and durable). Epoxy is used for bar tops where water and glasses are tough on wood.
- Indoor low toxicity: to reduce the stink and chemicals, using a polycrylic or water-based polyurethane is common.
- Non-yellowing: polycrylic is resistant to UV-fading and yellowing that is common with other polyurethane.
- Food safe – tung oil is the most popular, but mineral oil and a few other conditioners are also common.
Outdoor Projects
Moving outdoors, you’ll find a variety of applications from direct water contact to finishes for indirect sun and water:
- Waterproof: a spar varnish is the gold standard for waterproof exterior finishes and work well as an outdoor table finish.
- Penetrating oil: for finishing exotic woods like Jatoba there are specialty clear coats for wood furniture that are safe to use outdoors.
- Water resistant vertical surfaces: for direct sun and water contact a water based topcoat like the General Finishes 450 is popular.
Best Finishes By TYpe oF project
With hundreds of options to choose from deciding on a clear coat can be a daunting search.
And, as woodworkers know, for each project the best finish will vary.
Let’s take a look at the most common projects and wood finishes to use.
Furniture or Cabinets
When finishing cabinetry or furniture pieces with a clear finish you’ll have an important decision: do you apply a penetrating oil first and then a surface clear coat last?
The answer depends on how you want to highlight the grain and if a yellowish tone on clear wood (maple) would enhance or detract.
And, to avoid showing off flaws on larger surfaces, most woodworkers stick to a satin finish. Why? Well, gloss finishes reflect more light and highlight defects.
Options:
- Darker woods – use a satin sheen urethane to highlight the grain.
- Lighter woods – opt for a water-based finish that will not yellow with age.
Pick for Trim and Window Casings
One of the most common DIY projects is to apply a finish to new trim or window casings.
But, surprisingly, this seemingly low surface area project will quickly turn into a tedious project as ridges and drips can create runs in the finish.
The solution? A wipe on finish that goes on easy and is great for small and large surfaces (including wood doors).
Options:
- Wipe on finishes – look for a higher gloss, wipe on finish that builds up quick and offers a rich shine.
- Sanding Sponges – are a must to sand between the second and third coat for a smooth finish.
Best Finishes For a Butcher Block
As you likely know, the number one consideration with any food-related wood is it is “food safe”.
And fortunately there are dozens of options to choose from. Since these finishes *must* penetrate (surface finishes would come loose into your food) the options here are all oil-based sealants.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer guidelines – most of which recommend periodic re-sealants over the years. So keep hold of the bottle.
Best For Irregular Wood Project
Some finish projects are intricate enough that wiping or brushing just won’t work.
And while a professional would use an air sprayer, a DIY’er or even most woodworkers will turn to a basic spray-on lacquer.
Options:
- Spray Lacquer – is first and foremost a toxic spray, so use a mask. But this high gloss option goes on fast, dries quick and offers a durable finish.
- Spray Polycrylic – is less toxic, sprays clear and offers a durable finish.
Types of Finishes
Penetrating Finishes
A cutting board is a great example of where a clear finish is desired and the finish cannot be on the surface.
So what types of finishes can offer protection to the wood?
Fortunately there are solutions that have been used for 2000+ years (Tung oil) that are plant based and food safe.
Common Penetrating Finishes
- Tung Oil (plant-based, clear)
- Boiled Linseed Oil (plant-based, yellowing)
- Mineral Oil (non-toxic, food safe)
Applying a Penetrating Finish
These types of finishes are among the easiest to apply.
First, make sure your projects surface preparation is complete, fully sanded, and clean of all dust and debris.
Then simply follow the directions on the oil you have chosen.
A few pointers:
- Always use clean, food-safe rags if you are working with pieces like a butcher block
- Drying time can vary from a few hours to a few days with a penetrating finish
- Follow directions for multiple coats
- And, remember multiple coats can lead to build-up you may not want
With some projects, like a butcher block, you’ll be able to apply a tung oil many times over the life of the piece.
Toxicity of Penetrating Finishes
Most penetrating clear finishes are toxin free, however check the individual supplier and remember to check the actual composition. For example, some Tung oil (pressed from the Tung tree) are imitation.
Surface Wood Finishes
By far the most popular type of clear wood finish, a surface finish will provide a durable topcoat.
Common Surface Finishes
- Lacquer
- Polyurethane
- Shellac
- Epoxy
- Polycrylic
Applying Surface Finishes
These finishes range from easy to hard to apply.
While some finishes wipe on with a rag, others require High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray systems for the best finish.
What’s best for your project? Well, I consider budget and avoiding toxic fumes first, but humidity, drying time and your skill all play into choosing a clear wood finish.
Toxicity
The toxicity of finishes is something to watch.
While water-based finishes are generally less toxic than a solvent finish there are still toxins to keep track of.
What should you look for? First, the common language is Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s) and the Underwriters Laboratory has a GREENGUARD program that certifies products seeking to be greener.
But, be sure to always use protective equipment when finishing wood to ensure you’re minimizing contact, use ventilation, respirators and all other safety equipment as specified by the manufacturer.
Wood Finish Application Tips
Tip #1 - Make sure the wood is sanded properly
I’ve seen so many projects go bad with the wood not having the right finish sanding. To avoid this simply follow these steps:
- For new construction projects use a tool like a belt sander to remove extra wood and create a flat surface.
- My favorite tool is an orbital sander as it can remove a large amount of wood with a 40-grit sanding disc and be the finish sander with a 320-grit disc. Use this sander to remove any scratches and prepare the wood for a final sanding.
- Use a pad or palm sander with a high grit number (200+) to remove any orbital sander swirls.
- For uneven surfaces use a sanding block to remove any raised grain.
For help on which sanders to use refer to the guide to the best wood sanders.
Tip #2 - Use the proper safety equipment
Even a water-based finish has a level of toxicity that you should be careful with.
And lacquer or other chemical-based finishes absolutely require safety equipment. Beyond using a ventilated area be sure to use:
- Paint-grade respirator
- Chemical gloves
- Eye protection
Tip #3 - Test on a Small Piece First
I have an imprint of an orbital sander on my insulated garage door.
Many years ago I attempted a tricky color match on a maple desk top – which is extremely hard to do with a blotch-prone hard maple project. And after many redo’s and touch-ups (and a late nite) was frustrated at the process.
What I would have done different? Use a test piece of maple first, found the right application process AND THEN tackled the larger surface.
While applying a clear wood finish may not have the same level of difficulty, if you’re new to wood finishes try a test piece of the backside of your project first to get the hang of it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best clear wood finish?
While there are many varieties of wood finish I prefer a urethane finish due to it’s easy application, durability and resistance to water. In fact, I have converted from spraying lacquer with an HLVP sprayer on most projects to use of a wipe-on urethane.
Do I need to stain wood before applying a clear wood finish?
While there are pros and cons of applying an oil sealant it comes down to preference and if you are looking to avoid a yellowing of the underlying wood. For example, the maple trim in my house is finished with three coats of lacquer and has no stain. But a light stain or oil can enhance the grain of the wood and might be worth applying. If you’re not sure test it out on large enough test piece that you can decide what works best for your project.
How do you get a smooth finish on wood?
By applying two coats of a sealer and then sanding the finish with a 220 grit.
What is the hardest wood finish?
A two-part epoxy is one of the hardest finishes for wood. While other finishes are durable, this finish is by design made for high use, high risk of damage areas like commercial bars.
What is the difference between lacquer and polyurethane?
There are three primary considerations when comparing lacquer vs. polyurethane. First, lacquer is thin enough to be sprayed on while polyurethane is generally brushed. Second, polyurethane is generally more durable as it is a surface finish whereas lacquer is a penetrating finish. And last, lacquer typically dries faster due to it’s solvent-base.
- About the Author
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Eric has been a professional woodworker for over thirty years and has worked in small cabinet shops making everything from kitchen cabinets to hand-made furniture. Now working from a home woodworking shop Eric is sharing his passion for woodworking, tool advice and how-to knowledge from his Minnesota-based woodshop.
Hello, I appreciated your information on the different options for finishing. We have a cerused dining table with matching buffet and the table top has some minor surface damage where there was a centerpiece and water appears to have removed the top surface in a couple of areas, i am needing to sand it down and re-seal the table top to address the finish but do not want to harm the cerused white look that is in the grain so that the table will still match the buffet when complete.
if you have any suggestions i would much appreciate any input, local furniture restoration places here want more than the table is worth to refinish it and i still have concerns of the outcome matching the buffet.
the Polycrylic looks like it might be the solution since it does not yellow.
I can sent photos to help understand my situation better?
Thank you
Steve
Hi Steve,
I’d be happy to take a look and sent you a note!
Thanks,
E.D. Tryon
Hello, do you have any recommendations on a sealant for a redwood deck. I’ve read that we should wait at least 3 months before sealing the new deck and I am looking for recommendations on a sealant/stain.
Thanks for any info,
Abel
Hi Abel,
That’s a great question. My recommendation is consulting a local paint supplier like Sherwin Williams as your local temperature ranges, sun exposure, foot traffic and humidity will impact performance of the sealer (and when you can apply it).
E.D.
My question is about putting a clear coat of something on a walking stick. What is the best to use? I was thinking of the spray rustoleum laquer. Will that be ok?
Hi Michele –
Thanks for asking! One of the better options for a clear coat on a walking stick would be a spar varnish. Minwax has a spray version on Amazon: https://amzn.to/3jUDXIO.
Thanks,
EDT
Hello
What would you suggest for wooden wind chimes? I am looking to protect them from the weather and the uv of the sun.
Thank you
Hi Dee –
TotalBoat is one of the better outdoor protectants; their site recommends a combination of their finish plus a UV-protectant top coat. https://support.totalboat.com/hc/en-us/articles/1500000068821-Do-TotalBoat-epoxy-products-have-any-UV-protection-
Eric
Hi,
I have some cut pieces from a cedar tree that I would like to make into hot plates. They have a red Starburst in the center. Should I use Tung oil or Walrus oil first and then use a surface coat? If I apply a surface coat after a penetrating oil will that prevent yellowing?
Also, if I use a surface coat, which would be your best preference? Not sure if it’s needed or not.
Thank you,
Tamara
Hi Tamara,
For hot surfaces any surface finish will risk being heated and melted. A penetrating finish is best, or leave the wood bare.
Thanks,
Eric